Wednesday, March 9, 2011

FFB: Feminism and the Slave Leia Costume

I’ve only been doing this blog for a short time, and it’s already clear to anyone who’s kept up with it that I am an unabashed nerd.  The kind that runs around in costumes.

Now, there are a lot of stereotypes that surround the costuming community.  Costumers are overweight and socially awkward.  Costumers do what they do to escape their own miserable reality.  Costumers never get laid. That’s all much more than I have any intention of addressing here.  What I’m here to talk about today is how my feminism affects my costuming habits.




I’m a small, brown-haired, relatively pretty young woman.  In the general sense, this makes me a great Princess Leia.  I’ve been wearing her Ceremonial gown from the end of A New Hope for years, and pretty soon I’ll have finished the Senatorial gown (aka the classic white dress with the cinnamon bun hair).  And Leia is a totally kickass character, so I can get on board with this.  There is one Leia costume, however, I will never make.



I’ll warn you, this might get a little ranty.  Disclaimers first, though: I have nothing against anyone who chooses to make the costume and wear it.  I can no sooner force anyone out of the metal bikini than anyone can force me into it.

Shortly before my college graduation in 2007, someone posted a short article on TheForce.Net reminding people to tune into a show discussion the question “Slave Leia Costumes: Art or Objectification?”  Having very nearly completed my studies at the extremely feminist-friendly Oberlin College, by then I had plenty of thoughts on the matter as soon as the question was posed.  There’s no discussion on the article itself, but there was discussion on the Angels of Iego costuming forums.  Sadly, I can’t link you to the original debate because someone hacked the forums and everyone’s old posts were nuked.  Suffice to say, opinions were split on the matter.

I fell strongly into the camp that said, “Well, of course it’s objectification.”  I mean, this doesn’t mean you can’t wear it, but you do have to accept that, as a consequence of wearing the costume, you will be objectified.  It’s possible that four years in the computer science department had jaded me, but I knew exactly what most guys were thinking when they saw the costume.  I knew it because half the time they forgot I was in the room and failed to filter their comments.  

And even more than that, it’s objectification in universe.  Leia isn’t shown to wear that costume because she has a particular bondage kink.  She doesn’t put it on willingly, nor does she show any indication that she likes wearing such things as a matter of course.  The entire reason she is wearing that bikini is because she was Jabba the Hutt’s prisoner, and he was all too happy to find such a way to humiliate the Rebel Princess.  The chain around her neck is used to force her closer to him, even when it’s clear she’d rather be anywhere else.  It’s a deliberate attempt to strip her of her dignity.

I will grant that she did turn it around and use the chain to choke him to death, but that doesn’t make it an empowering costume.  It makes Leia an empowered character who is better than that costume.

My opinion, of course, was met with much criticism.  Most notably was with the owner of Leia’s Metal Bikini, a website that features photos of women wearing the Slave Leia costume.  It’s run by a man who goes by the name Jamin.  He insisted that it wasn’t objectification on any levels, and seemed to think it was insulting to the fine ladies on his site that I thought so (at least, this is the impression I have in my memory).  Which I found particularly hilarious coming from him.  Now, I can’t find the original graphic I complained about, but he hasn’t disappointed me.  Back in 2007, it was time for Star Wars: Celebration IV, and there was to be a Slave Leia photo shoot.  It was advertised using a photo with text over it.  The photo was of three Slave Leias, cropped from their necks down to their knees.

Excuse my caps, but NOT SUBTLE AT ALL, PEOPLE.

Though I can’t find that particular graphic anymore, the header image from his website is just as bad:



In the interest of fairness, I’ll give you his reasoning.  He said he knew the ladies in question and didn’t want to use their likeness without their permission.  I guess it’s okay to plaster the mostly naked bodies of women around the internet as long as you don’t show their faces?  Also, he knows these ladies, and writing e-mails to ask for permission is hard.

And it’s not just him. I single him out because he owns the prominent Slave Leia costuming site and calls himself “Slavemaster,” but he’s hardly alone.  There was a G4TV Slave Leia car wash about a year ago, which I almost participated in as a regular Leia.  They’d simply advertised it as a “Star Wars Charity Car Wash,” and I was all gung ho to show up as Leia until it was moved to the weekend of a college reunion.



I’ll be honest: had I gone, I would have walked out. G4 isn’t known for its feminist ideals, so I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised.

For me, what I wear when I’m out as a costumer has an even greater impact than the clothes I choose to wear at work.  I work in a cave.  But when I'm out in costume, I'm surrounded by people.  Some of them very young people, who I don't want to give the impression that Leia was okay with being dressed up like a dancing girl.  As a woman in costuming, particularly in a franchise that is often perceived as being "for boys," I am in a unique position to encourage the younger nerd girls that yeah, it's okay to love Star Wars.  There are girls who are awesome in the franchise, and we're not just there to be eye candy.

I commend you if you made it all the way through that.  If any of you who made it this far have any opinions on the matter, I’d love to hear them.  Is there a context in which this costume isn’t objectification?  Would you be willing to wear it?

Friday, March 4, 2011

Friday Outfit: Lost in a Good Book

Sunshine!  And lack of Star Wars props!  Are you sure it's Friday?  Well, considering I still have to go into work tomorrow, I can't say it feels like one.  But the calendar insists it is.

Red openwork sweater - Sparrow (via Anthropologie)
White camisole - H&M
Denim jeans - Gap
Black Jenna flats - Bass

I'd forgotten how itchy this sweater is.  Real wool is like that, but I usually wear it with a long sleeved shirt underneath it.  Clearly I did not make the same choice today, but that is because we actually got up around 70 degrees.  Looking at it from this vantage point, it seems like the sweater could benefit from a belt or some such.  I'll have to experiment with that.    It's an otherwise pretty standard outfit for me.  Maybe I should try to shake it up a bit next time I take this sweater out.  And wear something with more coverage underneath it, because I'll be honest- as soon as that photo was taken, I came back upstairs and took the thing off.

The book is one I just got in the mail today.  I love Jasper Fforde, in spite of his vocal hatred of fanfiction writers and going out of his way to insult them in his fifth Thursday Next book.  It was a totally non-classy move, but as a lover of books I can't help but love these stories.  I owned the first four at one point, but loaned The Eyre Affair to an old roommate who never returned it, and I gave Lost in a Good Book away since it was the only American edition I had and I wanted my set to match slightly more.  There are two sets of UK covers and I have books from both of them.  I was pleased to discover that the copy of Lost in a Good Book I'd ordered not only had the simpler cover whose design I prefer, but it's also autographed!






Way cool.  Though, if I ever meet the man, I will be tempted to tell him to be a little less hard on people who are inspired to write by his books when his own work relies so completely on the writing of others.  That their work happens to be in the public domain doesn't make him a better writer.

I mean, he's a better writer because he is a brilliant author.  But I do find his proprietary feelings baffling when his fourth book stars Hamlet.  You know, Shakespeare's Hamlet. 

As I said, however, I love his writing.  All of it.  I have read everything he's written and it's made of awesome, so I will continue to read.  If you love literature and haven't read any of Fforde's work... what are you waiting for?  Go find yourself a copy of The Eyre Affair and start reading!

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Thursday Outfit: The Sun is a Mass of Incandescent Gas

The colours are kind of sunset-like?  I'm going with it.  Also, I heard this song at work today, because we listen to awesome music.  Y'all should have heard my lead and me rocking out to RE: Your Brains.

I keep telling myself I'm going to do my laundry, and I keep getting distracted.  Not that I don't have a lot of things in my closet, but a lot of my staples are dirty and smelly and I'd like them washed.  Especially when I'd like to use them as layering pieces with my more summery things.

Black ruffled cardigan - Express
Kissing Friday Dress - Bailey 44 (via Anthropologie)
Black leggings - Eurotard
Red flats - Madden Girl

This dress is comfy and awesome.  I picked it up when Anthro had their entire clearance section marked an extra 25% off.  That was a fantastic sale.  This dress will be pretty fantastic in the summer once the temperature goes above 90 degrees, but for now it works below 60 if I add a couple of layers.

Also, logging my outfits like this every day gives me a whole new perspective on things I wear.  For one thing, I wear like, two pairs of shoes.  Even though I have more!  I just don't wear them as much.  Also, in spite of its absence today, I wear a lot of purple.  It's my favourite colour, so that makes sense.  I have black pieces, but don't necessarily wear a lot of black.  This is probably a result of that period of time in high school when my mom forbade me from buying any new black clothing because I had too much.

Not to mention, hello pale midwesterner.  Lived in California two years and I'm still blindingly white.  Go me.

In any case, I suppose it's good I think about my clothing choices more now.  Else I'd just go back to jeans, t-shirts, and swirly skirts, and continually be mistaken for a student at UCLA.

Ye Olde Link Collection: Feminist Fashion Icons

For anyone interested in reading the full collection of feminist fashion icons from the group post yesterday, here's a complete listing for your reading enjoyment!

Björk - Oranges and Apples

Christine Lagarde– Rags Against the Machine

Cindy Sherman - Mrs Bossa Does the Do

Claude Cahun - Cervixosaurus

Diane Von Furstenberg – For Those About to Shop

Elizabeth Smith Miller – Techie Style

Ellen Page – SK{ru}SH

Frida Kahlo - La Historiadora de Moda from Fashionable Academics

Frida Kahlo – Knitting Up the Ravelled Sleeve of Care

Gloria Steinem – Ef for Effort

Gloria Steinem - What If No-One’s Watching?

Gloria Trevi - Feministified

Grandmother – The House in the Clouds

Griselda Pollock - Magic Square Foundation

Hedy Lamarr - Adventures in Refashioning

Marjane Satrapi - Jean of all Trades

Joan of Arc – Interrobangs Anonymous

Julia de Burgos – Mad Dress Game

Margaret Cho – What Are Years?

Oroma Elewa - Fishmonkey

P.J.Harvey - Northwest is Best

Rachel Carson – Aly en France

Siouxsie Sioux - Yo Ladies

Sydney Fox - My Illustrative Life

Vivienne Westwood - Seamstress Stories

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Wednesday Outfit: Marching in the Fancy Pants Parade

So, I guess I'm sticking with a Jonathan Coulton naming theme for now.  I could do much worse, as JoCo is pretty awesome.

Purple draped cardigan - H&M
Cream knit tank - Love Culture
Denim jeans - Gap
Black Jenna flats - Bass

In honor of Elizabeth Smith Miller and the bloomer girls, I wore pants today.  I suppose I could have gone more creative and tried recreating the same sort of outfit they wore, but I am in serious need of doing laundry and had a slightly limited selection to work with.  This did pretty well for me today.  It's comfy, has a distinct style to it, and you can't see from the photo but I did side braids in my hair that tie together in the back.  It's how my Jedi wig is styled and I love the look, I just never got around to doing it for myself. It worked well for my hair, and it also did well with the braided trim on the outfit.  Synergy!

That said, today is all about the love of pants.  Where would I be without them?  Where would you be without them?  Share your love for pants!

Feminist Fashion Blogs: Elizabeth Smith Miller, Feminist Fashion Icon

Today I am talking about pants.  Or, more specifically, bloomers.  Even more specifically Elizabeth Smith Miller and her band of "Bloomer Girls."






Scandalous!  Or so it was thought for a long time.  The motivation of Elizabeth Smith Miller's outfit is not entirely clear- she said it was because she would get frustrated trying to garden in long skirts (and really, who can dispute a valid point like that?), but it's also speculated she was inspired by the spas at the the Oneida utopian community near her father's house, where such outfits were worn frequently.  In any case, this all became a big thing when she convinced a few of her friends- Amelia Bloomer, Elizabeth Cady Stanton, and eventually Susan B. Anthony to wear this sort of dress.

There were many names suggested for the garment.  "Freedom dress" was the one advocated by women's rights activists, but "bloomers" is the name that stuck.  It's generally speculated that this is because Bloomer was a known newspaper editor.  It also has a much better ring to it, in my humble opinion.

In any case, such outfits had been worn privately for years in spas and utopian communities, but when Bloomer, Stanton, and Miller wore them publicly, it created quite the stir.  After all, women wearing pants could only lead to the decline of masculinity: "these ladies assert their claim to rights, which we of bifurcated raiment are charged with usurping. This claim conflicts with, and if secured, will tend to diminish the rights of masculine mankind...he must be blind who does not perceive...a storm that shall eventually rob manhood of all it’s grand prerogatives." That's straight out of the New York Times in 1852.

Whatever 'grand prerogatives' mankind had in 1852 that it lost as a result of our gall to wear pants, I'm pretty sure they've survived pretty well without them.

Of course, the women who chose to wear bloomers suffered for those choices, and in a fashion that is completely typical for the media, they discovered that their mode of dress was drawing attention away from issues they deemed more important, such as education, employment, and suffrage.  They slowly phased the bloomers out of their everyday wardrobes, but by that time the bloomers had become a staple item among bicyclists.  Once World War I rolled around and women took civilian jobs that had once belonged to men, they started wearing trousers, and once that happened, pants for women were here to stay.

Even though I'm mildly disappointed to read that they gave up on the fashion instead of sticking to their guns, I think it was a smart decision to focus on things that mattered a lot more in the short run, and let the fashion sort itself out over the long haul.  Future generations got to enjoy pants and voting, which are both things I enjoy very much.

Here's to the women who gave us pants.  I'd climb fewer trees without them.

EDIT: Credit where credit is due- I got most of my information from this article, which is a more thorough and academic version of what you just read here.  It's fascinating reading and I want to find the book she cites at the bottom, "Pantaloons and Power: A Nineteenth-Century Dress Reform in the United States," by Gayle V. Fischer.  There's all kinds of things that could be said about pants and gender dynamics in the US over history, but that is a project for someone less sleep deprived than I am. :)

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Tuesday Outfit: Code Monkey Like Tab and Mountain Dew

Code Monkey very simple girl, with big warm fuzzy secret heart- Code Monkey like you!

Blue cardigan - Love Culture
Alice in Wonderland "Monkeys" shirt - Imageworks exclusive
Favourite white skirt v2.0 - patterned from a Gap skirt
Red flats - Madden Girl

I like this shirt, possibly even more than the primary shirt for the show.  Alice was not really the most organized on the t-shirt front.  Usually there are order forms and things are voted on in a timely fashion, but I guess we were pretty busy and at some point someone realized, OH CRAP a whole bunch of people are finishing soon and maybe we should get the crew shirt out.  As a result, the crew shirt comes in two designs, two weights, and four colours, and I own three shirts (I wasn't too keen on the original green ones they rushed out to make sure everyone could have a shirt).

I like this outfit.  It's maybe only a few steps above my college standard of favourite white skirt + silly graphic tee + birkenstocks, but it works pretty well in the workplace.  Well, anything works pretty well in my workplace, but still!  

Still trying to figure out what to do with my hair.  There's a lot of it and I don't feel like doing much with it at 6 in the morning.  I'm not cutting it off, since I'm actually trying to grow it longer, but I feel like I should have some simple styles I can throw together in my sleep, aside from my standard 'pin it all up with a zillion bobby pins!' look.  Which, while effective, should probably be rotated with some other looks.

Things to ponder.  For now, I believe dinner is calling my name.